Max Brenner - Part One

Max Brenner's Union Square location opened today at 5:30 p.m. I arrived at 5:37, and the loftlike space was already as packed as Shea Stadium during the Subway Series. I pushed through throngs of people to spy the Belgian waffles, brownies and refrigerated chocolate desserts at the take-out counter, but I didn't have time to sit in the large eat-in area. I almost tripped over someone as I made my way over to the small chocolate shop. Although I did snag a cocoa-and-praline-covered pecan sample, I felt so rushed that I will have to make another visit. But first I'll have to finish these boxes of pure milk chocolate thins and milk chocolate cubes filled with praline and caramelized pecan bits.

Max Brenner: 841 Broadway, (212) 388-0030.